Category Archives: Ritchie CountyWV-1970s

Back to the land with no electric

Alta’s Mincemeat Pie

Working at the Midway Diner

It was really cold outside, somewhere in the low twenties, and I was shivering and trying to snuggle closer to the huge cast iron cook stove.  I was about frozen after riding the little Yamaha dirt bike into town wearing my cheap, white polyester waitress uniform. My fingers would not even unbend.

“Good morning, Alta. Is the oven cranked up? I’m freezing. How many pies do you think we’ll need?”

Alta worked the gloves off my hand and tried rubbing some heat into them with her own. It hurt. She fetched a pan of warm water from the back of the stove top and had me lay my hands in that instead. I was starting to thaw out when she handed me a hot cup of coffee, which finally did the trick.

We really did not have time to waste and needed to get cranking before  all the oil riggers and pipeliners showed up hungry at the door. We were the morning crew at the Midway Diner, midway  between Parkersburg and Clarksburg, West Virginia, on old Route 50.

The Pipeliner Guys

There was a whole bunch of guys, down from working on the new Alaskan pipeline, who had come into town these past few days, who started work real early in the morning, so we had to be ready. I had a little trouble gauging just how much food they were likely to eat on a given day.

Alta had a feel for this, though, as she’d been periodically feeding this group, or one similar to it, like the hunters, for the better part of going on forty years. She was a roundy,  plumpish,  good looking farm woman who had lost her husband quite a few years back to a tractor accident. Her kids were all grown and moved off somewhere else and she mothered me as much as I would let her. She still wore the old cotton calico, shirt waist dresses of the fifties and knee high, colored nylons with sneakers for everyday. Her homemade aprons had deep pockets and rick rack edging. I don’t think she ever got cold.

“Well, it’s bitter cold and damp out there”, she said. “I figure they’ll be eating and packing extra food today just to keep warmed up. You’d better figure on ten – twelve cream pies. Make sure there’s at least two peanut butter, one each of coconut cream and lemon meringue and five or six fruit. Better get the coffee started right away too as they’ll be needing to fill all their thermal jugs.”

After hanging up my jacket on the rack by the back door and washing up my hands, I headed out into the diner and bent down behind the long, red Formica counter to get the coffee makings out. That cup that Alta had given me was starting to kick in and before long I might be able to actually function something like a human. It was still only four thirty in the morning – not my best time. You might as well not even try and talk to me before I’ve had my coffee. You might get a grunt but the brain wouldn’t be in gear yet.

I was going to have to make- from scratch mind you- eighteen pies in the next what – two hours?  If I was lucky, and the other help actually showed up on time, I might actually get them done. Better make the coffee good and  strong.

At six thirty A.M I would unlock the front door to the horde of  ravenous beasts- Pipeliner men who smelled of oil and looked grubby enough to have been using crude oil to wash up in. They were always lined up and ready before opening time. We expected them to be working around here for six or eight weeks and they (almost all of them) left really good tips. Considering the usual five dollars a day I would get from the locals, the two dollars a plate I got from the pipeline guys would really help me out.

Pipeliners perked up the whole local economy by staying in our little run down motel, boarding in with some folks, eating at the local restaurants, and telling wild stories about well drilling and working on the Alaska pipeline. They were real friendly to me in the restaurant and sometimes, when the place just got too hectic to handle by myself, a couple of them would slip behind the counter to pitch in by making coffee and getting silverware set up.

They were on some kind of seasonal circuit and showed up every year in the late fall. I guess it got too cold up in Alaska to work outside about then. I enjoyed their company each year but I was also pretty glad to have them leave in the Spring so that I did not have to get up so darn early anymore. Places like the Diner got started later and moved a lot slower after they left.

Mincemeat and Scrapple

“You’d better get a move on girl, them pies aren’t going to make themselves and I am going to need help back here with this tater peeling before long”, Alta hollered in from the kitchen,  “Oh, and do you know anybody who’s planning on butchering hogs sometime soon? I am about out of mincemeat and really need to put up another big batch a’fore long.”

I finished getting six more pots of coffee going and headed back to the warm kitchen with two fresh cups.

“I’ll ask Chip about it when he comes in next time, should be soon. He’s got a whole mess of hogs about ready to go up there. Now the weather has turned seriously cold he is bound to start on killing some.”

Chip was a farmer two hills over from us that always gave me first dibs on the hog heads because he knew I would find some good use for them. His wife, Linda, wasn’t into dealing with that part after she had spent an entire two days cutting and wrapping all the rest of the hogs- they usually did three at a time and it was a big job. A messy, smelly, gross job, that when I helped them with,  left me unable to eat pork for about three weeks.

I usually made Scrapple (or Pon Hos) with my share of the heads- three heads will work up into about sixty pounds of Scrapple in the freezer -enough to last the two of us the whole year and have plenty to trade with friends. Some folks won’t eat it because they have heard it’s made of brains and eyes and such, but really, it is just good pork broth made with whatever meat there is, all ground up, with cornmeal, buckwheat flour and oatmeal, a little sage, salt and pepper.

You cook up a big pot of it just like cornmeal mush, until it gets gloppy-thick. Then you spoon it into bread pans or waxpaper lined shoe boxes and let it cool till it sets up. Then you turn the molds upside down and wrap the little loaves up with freezer paper. It only keeps about a week in the fridge so we have to freeze the rest. Since we don’t have electric at our house, we barter meat and Scrapple for freezer space at the neighbors. To cook it, you cut quarter inch slices, sprinkle some flour on both sides, and fry them brown and crispy in an oiled iron skillet.  Served  with fried eggs, it makes for a good filling meal- breakfast or dinner either one, and it’s cheap to make.

Alta wanted the hogsheads to make her mincemeat pie filling. I have no idea how she makes it-it is a secret recipe and she won’t tell anyone. Her mincemeat pies are by far the best around though. She always gets rave reviews at the church suppers and all her pies are the first to go. I have always made mine vegetarian style, out of green tomatoes and raisins. They are nothing like hers.

Hogsheads

Chip came by the diner for lunch later that day and told me he’d be butchering as soon as he brought in the last of his field corn which depended on it not raining for the next three days. He wanted to know if I could I help by driving the wagon?

“Sure, I’ll get done here about two o’clock. Just give me a holler.”

So we set it up to work on harvesting the last of the corn on Friday. Hog butchering would probably start the next day.  I told Alta  I’d have some hogs heads for her soon, but didn’t tell her exactly when I would have them. We worked steadily along the rest of the morning – we always worked well together.

The next Monday Chip stopped by my house on his way to the feed store with three big, lumpy black plastic bags for me. Inside were the three heads for Alta, all clean and scalded from the weekend butchering. I packed them into the old gas fridge we kept outside  under the eaves.

You couldn’t stand to have the gas fridge inside because it put out nasty fumes, We didn’t know how to get the burners adjusted right to prevent it. We usually kept the extra eggs and the goats milk out there too, and there wasn’t a lot of extra space, so I decided to deliver the heads to Alta’s first thing in the morning.

Three Pig Heads

I had the next day off but it was going to be really hectic. We were trying to build a house way up the hill at our place and we had a lot of work to do. It wasn’t Alta’s day off, though , so I figured  I had better get to her house before she left for work so she’d have time to find a cool place to put them.

When I got there at four the next morning, she was not downstairs yet, so I slipped into her kitchen and very quietly placed the heads, with their eyes and ears and snouts still intact, onto her kitchen counter. It was reminiscent of those monkeys doing “Hear no evil, See no evil, and Speak no evil” and they were all grinning grotesquely as dead pigs do.

Maybe setting the heads up on the counter like that was a bit much,  but it seemed funny at the time. I wanted to hear her reaction to this gruesome trio, so I sat down outside on the dark porch step, out of sight, and waited for her to come down. I did not have to wait long. I heard her slippers scuffing down the wooden stairs, the light switch click on and then,

“Aaaahhh! Aaaahhh!  Wendy! Where are you? You dirty rat! I am going to get you back for this!

I snuck away as fast as I could- she was a little too mad for me to want to risk her seeing me now. I would give her time to cool down. I knew she would, she always had a good sense of humor. It was just a little too early in the day to see it right now. I was  glad I had not caused her to have a heart attack or something.

Some other cooks I found with the same thought

Photo of some other cooks I found with the same thought!

Photo:http://www.freewebs.com/sulphurspringsseniorcenter/Hear_No_Evil,_Speak_No_Evil,_See_No_Evil.jpg  (Check out this site  for a funny video of seniors having fun as well.)

The next morning at work, Alta thanked me for bringing her the heads and told me she brought out the camera and got a picture of them all lined up on the counter like that. She was thinking she might have to send a copy to her kids along with her secret recipe for Mincemeat Pie.

She also said I would never see it coming when she finally figured out how to get me back and she was making it her mission in life. I reckon I deserve it. Sure is good pie though, and I still don’t have her recipe.

Wendy lee Maddox- https://www.edgewisewoods.com

March 29, 2014

 

 

 

 

 

Winter of 76

Winter of 76

 

The floors don’t quite meet up with the wall at the kitchen end of our one room house. In the winter it tends to get pretty drafty, especially down near your feet. There is a good six inch gap since we didn’t know much about building and it was just temporary anyway. That end wall is the only wooden one and it has the biggest window. It’s also on the coldest, windiest side. Plus it faces the only neighbors who live close by and who we have nothing to do with. When we first moved in there wasn’t any wall there, just a pile of hay. It was supposed to be a cow barn. The other three walls are made of cement block. Dull, blah grey on the inside, because why bother painting them when ‘it’s just temporary’? On the outside though, we painted them barn red to waterproof them I guess. There are three little windows up near the top of the walls that we stuck these used window sashes in, and they got painted school bus yellow. Don’t ask me why. There is no insulation anywhere.

We have free gas from the well up the hill and one of those gas space heaters with the four clay towers standing upright that glow red when they are hot. It puts off a fair amount of heat. There is also the gas cook stove and the gas refrigerator, which fumes something terrible and needs to move outside. All the oil and gas wells on the creek get pumped on Saturdays, all at the same time. They are one cylinder natural gas engines that run on the gas they pull out of the ground. Kind of like a perpetual motion machine. When they are running it sounds like dance music, loud, off beat, boom, sinca, boom, sinca, boom, boom, sinca, sinca, boom, boom, boom. It is kind of fun to pull weeds or hoe in the garden to it. Every now and then I get up and dance to stretch my muscles.

The garden did good this year. I got a lot put up. Our share of the potatoes we planted with our neighbor down the road was 20 bushels. We’ll be trading some of them for other things. We don’t have a root cellar so we buried them in piles of hay mounded up with dirt on top. It looks like a bunch of giant termite mounds all over. In the house, I can keep some stuff under the spot in the floor where I’ve got a loose board, until it gets too cold. I canned all the garden veggies and the goats and chickens are doing OK.

We don’t have a telephone or electric or the bills that go with them. We use kerosene for lights, sometimes coleman lanterns because they are brighter. A friend left a battery powered fluorescent lantern and it was nice while it lasted. It is hard to stay up reading very late with kerosene. We go to bed pretty early in the winter time.

We had a baby this summer, which should have been a good thing but kind of slowed progress on our house building. Not that I was doing much of it anyway. A friend of ours came to stay with us and help build. He actually is a carpenter so this is a good thing. All three of us get along good even in our little one room house. He is probably the only reason anything got done on the house because some of us are lacking in the get up and go department.  Our carpenter friend stayed until the baby was born and then moved on. Some of us still showed no initiative but finally decided when it started to get cold that he would take off and go back to driving a truck for a few months for some cash. I did not hear from him for three months.

Meanwhile, it started to get cold in the house and I was worried about keeping warm. I had an insulation party. Some friends of mine came over and we made short work of insulating the house. It didn’t cost that much and made a big difference in comfort. I forced those walls to meet the floor. It actually upset SOU (some of us) that I did this without him. After he finally got back from the real world it got so cold that the gas froze in the pipes coming down from the well and we had no heat at all. It was 25 degrees below zero and we were in bed with the baby between us, and every blanket we owned on top, shivering all night. At first light we packed up and headed to a neighbors house to get warm. The baby screamed for two hours thawing out, she was so cold. The neighbors down the road kept her at their house to stay warm while we went out and bought a woodstove and pipe and hooked it up and chopped wood and got the house warm again. A bunch of our stuff froze. All my house plants were dead. Some of my canning jars burst. I loved the intense heat that woodstove put out and I will never be without one again. As a matter of fact, we added another one too. I cleaned out a friend’s root cellar in exchange for a hospital green colored Kalamazoo (“Direct to You”) wood cook stove. Now all I had to do was make sure I had wood split up and ready. Considering all the logging everywhere and the snag tops free for the taking this was no problem. Plus we could get slab wood at the saw mill cheap. No more cold for me.

 

-Wendy Maddox

Edgewisewoods.com

The Grain Embargo

The Grain Trains

7/14/2012

Back in the 70’s I lived on a rural backroad in what was called North West Central West Virginia. No lie, even the radio stations gave the weather reports by referring to that moniker. Basically it was a long gravel road following the creek called Bunnels Run. There were maybe 15 or so houses along the 8 mile stretch of road and a lot of folks had to cross the creek to get to their houses and barns. I lived on the roadside of the creek but we were building a house way up on the hill on the other side, but that is a different story.

Most of the folks living on the creek grew huge gardens and put up a lot of food for the winter. Many had a couple of pigs and chickens for eggs. Some of them had milk cows or in our case milk goats. Some folks had enough bottom land to put up hay and keep some beef cows as well. Some of them had enough bottom land to have a pretty good beef operation going, maybe 30 to 40 cows and their calves. Only one family grew much corn and that was because they had large open land that was not as prone to flooding. Bunnells Run was capable of doing some serious flooding pretty often and created numerous difficulties. Whenever it rained for longer than a day, the folks living on the far side had to park their cars along the road and walk in over their foot bridges. Sometimes the water was too deep to even reach the foot bridges and they had to either stay home or stay gone.

Everybody had outside jobs, even the beef farmers. The better paying jobs were way over in St. Marys and Parkersburg, along the Ohio River. It was 45 miles one way but necessary if you wanted a decent house and vehicle. Folks with the local jobs were definitely not doing as well as the ones who worked down on the River.

People were pretty neighborly to each other, helping out in the hay, getting each others’ tractors unstuck when they got mired in the mud, helping pull calves and load cattle for sale. Produce got traded back and forth all the time without involving money which no one could spare anyway. We worked in the hay, bucking bales and were paid in beef at butchering time. We would help each other butcher hogs and make apple butter for a small share to take home. Folks looked out for each other and found odd jobs to pass around sometimes. And folks spent enough time rocking on their porches to appreciate what they had most of the time.

Then came the massive sales of US grain to Russia. The U.S. was shipping all kinds of corn and wheat to Russia, who had enlarged their livestock numbers without growing enough grain to feed them. This drove the price of grain up, which was good for the large producers out in the Midwest, but it also made feed down at the local feed store too high to afford. This in turn caused too much livestock to be dumped on the market because small farmers could not afford to buy grain for them. People needed a certain amount of corn to fatten the beef and the hogs properly and they couldn’t even get it. It was all being shipped to Russia. Train cars full of corn were rolling through West Virginia all day and night there for awhile, on their way to the shipping ports.

So some folks who happened to have farms with the rail lines running through them started to get active. Every now and then a train would derail where it ran through a farm that happened to be so far back from any road that it was hard to find the way there. Calls would go out on the 4-party phone lines and all the neighbors and their families and friends would gather all of their saved feed sacks load up their shovels and grain scoops and head over there. At the farm gate would be guys and guns making sure no railroad people got in. The Sherriff did not show up for a few days. Everyone filled their sacks full of corn, loaded their pick ups and wagons as high as they could carry and carried it home to the barn. The market price of hogs and cows plummeted due to so many folks selling them early rather than paying the exorbitant grain prices so the small family growers canned , froze and cured a lot of pork and beef that year, enough to last for 2-3 winters. Nothing went to waste and nobody was stingy either. It was us against them. Them being the government types who thought it a good idea to take care of others at the expense of folks here at home. Good folks who work hard and deserve better. The Secretary of Agriculture, Earl Butz was all for US farmers increasing production to make up the shortfall in U.S. grain stores that these massive sales had caused. He wanted farms to “plant fence row to fence row” and “get big or get out … adapt or die,” which for hill farmers in West Virginia would mean death to the family homestead. He cut the set aside program that paid farmers to stop growing grain in erosion and flooding prone fields, from 25 million acres in 1972 to 7.4 million acres in ’73.  This was an abrupt change to small farm income sources, especially for low income folks needing it for seed money each year and it was a major set back for land conservation.

Nobody ever got hurt too bad when the trains derailed and I don’t know what methods were used to accomplish it. The trains generally traveled pretty slow through the hills. It was probably expensive to pick the cars back up and get them on the tracks but I suspect there was insurance for such events. It tore the farms up more than anything with all the heavy equipment coming and going. Local folks only had a few days to get in there and clean up what they could before the railroad managed to make their way in and put a stop to the looting but I don’t believe there were ever any lawsuits over it. I think the railroad guys were mostly like us and didn’t really want to see all that grain leave the country when we needed it.

 

*In the summer of 1972, the Soviets shook up the grain market when it hid from the world the fact that their grain harvest was in trouble. Then they made secret deals with the five biggest American grain companies for 24.2 million tons of grain worth almost $1.5 billion in 1972 dollars – $7.6 billion in 2009 dollars.

http://www.livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe70s/money_02.html

 

-Wendy Maddox

edgewisewoods.com

 

Ritchie County, West Virginia -Homesteading in the 70’s

Our "temporary" cement shack off of Bunnels Run Road
Our “temporary” cement shack off of Bunnels Run Road

Ritchie County, West Virginia -Homesteading in the 70’s

 Back in 1974 we were idealists and left our home state of South Jersey (which is totally different from North Jersey) to fend for ourselves, build our own house, raise our own food, make our own clothes, and be beholden to no one. None of the trappings of the gridlocked, power hungry, rat race for us. Eck had been driving a truck for a few years and had managed to save up a few thousand dollars so we headed to West Virginia where property was cheap, as in $50.00 per acre cheap, and the people still knew how to live close to the land. Driving through there in the truck had offered us glimpses of their backward ways, ways we could be comfortable with. The Pine Barrens was a great place to grow up in but it was fast becoming impossible to live there anymore. The shear numbers of people, and not friendly ones either, made just getting from point A to point B a major under taking. South Jersey drivers cussed in Italian while continuously honking their horns and would run you right off the road. I was just learning how to drive and could hardly stand to leave the sandy back woods roads. Mostly I didn’t. It was too stressful. I didn’t know any of those people anyway. Just about everybody I had know n growing up had already left. Well, we were leaving too, to live in a place where you knew you’re neighbors and actually cared about them. In South Jersey it had gotten to the point where you really didn’t want to know, there were too many weirdoes mixed in.

I was only 17, but I had gotten my GED when I was 15 with special permission from the superintendent. Normally you have to be 16 to take the test. I really couldn’t stand high school another day though. I had always been a good student, even if I didn’t fit in so well after the hormonal thing that transformed all the girls round about seventh grade. They were all so bizarre and mean after that. They were bad enough before. So in Jr High and High School I was pretty much a loner or I hung out with older kids with at least half a brain. The plan was for me to make a living as a potter in West Virginia. I was going to build a gas fired kiln, use the free gas that came right out of the ground sell or trade my pots for what we couldn’t grow ourselves. So why should I continue in high school, being miserable and wasting my time? I had previously made a verbal deal with the school board to graduate in two years if I agreed to attend summer school to pick up the English and History credits I would need, which I had done. They had reneged on their promise and decided instead that I I needed to take eleven empty credits of gym and study hall to graduate.  At that point, any faith I might have had in their system of justice faded to zilch. So I quit and went for the GED, which I passed.

74_shack_openEck had spent a fair amount of time looking at land in  real estate magazines and had gone down to Ritchie County and bought 80 acres for 6,000 dollars in 1973. It had five acres of good cleared bottomland with a creek running through the middle and 70 acres of woods on the  hill.  The ground was good for growing a garden and was already growing hay.  We had been down camping on it a few times and met the neighbors who seemed helpful and friendly. They had us in for ice tea and told us all about the history of the place and their family. They had ten kids, most of which had moved out by now and the Dad worked at one of the local sawmills. They had a big garden and put up a lot of food, canning and freezing. The Mom sewed all their clothes and did a lot of washing, cleaning and feeding. They were great.

So, in 1974, we gathered everything we could, like a big red Massey Harris tractor to plow and make hay with, my potters wheel, our very little bit of furniture, and our VW bug, and we loaded it all into a U Haul truck. The VW stuck out the back a little so the door wouldn’t pull all the way down but we had nailed wheel chocks to the floor so it was safe enough. Looked a little strange though. We did get stopped by a State cop in Pennsylvania on the way out but since my cat had just puked all over me and I was in desperate need of washing it off in the closest mud puddle he decided to leave us be. It was a long drive and took us about 12 hours along all the winding roads. There weren’t any good four lanes back then until you got all the way to Clarksburg, 45 miles from the end of the trip.

When we got to our new home, a never finished cement block milking barn with three walls and no floor, it was dark and we were really tired so we just pulled out our sleeping bags and slept in the hay that had been piled up in there. In the morning we woke up with six inches of new snow. It was April Fools Day. The U-Haul truck looked like it had sunk half a foot into the mud and snow over night and it was cold. We were cold. We had to unload the truck and get it back to the rental place first thing though or it was going to cost us more money, and from now on money was going to be tight. We finally managed to get the truck unstuck using some of the old hay for traction and got it backed it up to a steep bank along the gravel county road. First out was our 1966 VW bug, next came the tractor. Then we drove the truck back down to the barn to unload the rest. There wasn’t all that much to unload, a table and deacons bench, our clothes, my treadle sewing machine that I bought for 12 bucks, 2 kerosene lanterns, some books. That was about it. With the weight out of it though, the truck couldn’t get any traction on the wet ground and it wouldn’t budge. We had to get the tractor going and pull the truck all the way out to the road, probably a good 500 feet. It was a good thing we had the tractor and could get it running. The ground was made of slippery red clay that was gumming up on the tires and our boots. Not anything like the sand in South Jersey and something we would have to get used to around here. The rental place was clear out in Parkersburg, 45 miles to the West on the Ohio River and it took us the rest of the day to deal with. We stopped at the Midway diner to eat on the way and they welcomed us to the neighborhood. It was nice to be in such a small place where people asked about you, and the food was good too.

Over the next few days we cleaned up our little barn, throwing all the hay out into a big compost pile and picking up some used windows and lumber at a salvage yard nearby. We added on the fourth wall with two windows in it, plugged up all the holes between the roof rafters with scrap wood and bought a used tin drum type woodstove. It was lacking a proper lid so we used a disk from a harrow which worked fine. Stuck a nut and bolt through the hole in the middle for a handle. We had to talk to the two guys who did the well pumping on Saturdays to get us set up with the free gas. Wood we had plenty of. We hauled our bathwater from the creek and heated it on the stove in a three gallon speckled enamel canning kettle, which only took about 30 minutes.

Cement block milking parlor-Our Shack
Cement block milking parlor-Our Shack

The problem was a bathtub. It was too cold to take one outside. We took sponge baths for awhile and shampooed our heads in the bucket but that wasn’t really cutting it. We started going to the local Friday night auctions in town about 8 miles up the road for entertainment and I found a cast iron glass topped coffee table for three dollars. It worked fine as a bathtub by removing the glass and draping in a plastic shower curtain held up by clothes pins. I set the bucket down inside, climbed in squatting, and poured the water over me by the cupful. It felt so good to get clean. When I was done I gathered the top edge of the curtain all together and threw it over my shoulder to dump it outside. I used that table as a bathtub in the winter months for the next six years. It did throw some people who happened by. They had a little trouble at first trying to figure out what I was doing in the table. It was hardly even drafty as long as you stayed hunkered down in it. Once the weather warmed up though, we would just take the hot bucket of water outside and pour it over us while standing on a rock. In summer, once the creek got warm enough, we bathed in that instead, using Dr Bronner’s soap and used the bucket to rinse, a little away from the creek. That same three gallon blue speckled enameled bucket was also the dish washing sink and the bucket to heat up clothes washing water.

WashTubs and Laundry Line out by the outhouse
WashTubs and Laundry Line out by the outhouse

I eventually got a real nice set of Ideal brand aluminum wash tubs from Sears that had screw out drains and a flat topped removable lid. I kept it out by the wash line on the way to the outhouse. There was also a washboard for scrubbing the real dirty denims. I hated doing the wash when it was really cold. My hands would crack and the clothes would freeze stiff as boards out on the line. Then I’d have to bring them in and hang them from the ceiling to finish drying. It made it a little hard to get around in our 16 by 24 foot one room barn- house.

That first spring we plowed up about two acres but we didn’t have a disk harrow so I ended up having to break up all the clods by hand with a hoe. The neighbors thought I was crazy and they were probably right. That was the beginning of my knowing what hard physical labor was like. I did the whole thing though, by myself, can’t remember what Eck was doing at the time. I even have a picture of my young self hoeing that field.

Hoeing the Field
Hoeing the Field

We planted all kinds of stuff. Lots grew lots of potatoes, tomatoes, green beans, corn, squash, peas, onions, lettuce, spinach, turnips, carrots. You name it we planted it. And it all did well. We worked hard in that garden, weeding, mulching, building teepees and trellis. It was fun and a full time job for me. I had also gotten 60 day old baby chick through the mail and raised them up so we could sell eggs and they could eat and compost garden scraps. We didn’t really need two whole acres of garden though, and the next year it was much smaller and we still had plenty to eat.

Got pitchfork, will work for food
Got pitchfork, will work for food

I canned everything we didn’t eat right away and traded some for honey. We had managed to get the natural gas set up and found an old gas stove for cooking, so I had a regular kitchen area in our shack. Still had a dirt floor though, which was getting old. It is hard to keep anything even remotely clean when you have a dirt floor. So we decided to get Eck working part time at the feed store to get up enough money for some kind of floor. We didn’t want to use our saved money for our temporary barn-shack. We needed it for building our new house up on the hill. We only planned to stay in the shack long enough to get the real house built, which we knew would take a while, but not be forever. It did not take him too awful long to earn enough to buy the cheap 4×8 sheets of pressed -sawdust and the 2X6 floor joists. Having an actual floor was a major improvement. We even bought a couch for a dollar at a farm auction to make it feel homey. It came with three old ladies sitting on it. They got up when we loaded it.

We had finally gotten a pickup truck by now, a 1950 Chevy with a slant six and a wooden bed with cattle racks. It had 16 inch wheels and a crawl gear and a starter button on the floor. That truck would go anywhere. It was blue but it used to be green, and red before that. I loved that truck. It cost us $350. Gas was cheap then too. Of course this was during the Arab Oil Embargo and when we were still in NJ we had to wait in line to buy gas on the days your license plate numbers matched with the even or odd calendar date.  In West Virginia they didn’t have that problem, not as many people wanting to go places I guess.

50 Chevy and Goat riding
50 Chevy and Goat riding

 

At some point we decided to raise milk goats. We were home all the time anyway so being there twice a day to milk wasn’t an issue. Plus we were vegetarians, had been for about three years. With goats we could make our own yoghurt, sell the babies for money and make our own cheese. Milk goats were expensive, $150 apiece for Registered does of breeding age. We bought two Nubians with long droopy ears, Kasha and Lollipop. We had to come up with our own herd name to be able to sell registered  kids and we decided on Backwoods Teats. All the kids born on our place got tattoos in their ears with the initials of our herd name plus their own name, so if they were stolen or something they could be identified. It wasn’t a lot of fun to put the tattoo in but it was better than the dehorning that came next. That involved heating up a solid copper rod with a wooden handle in a fire until it was glowing red with heat. Then you had to hold it on the little starter nubbins of horn growing out of the baby goats head and hold it there for 30 seconds while they screamed bloody murder. As soon as you took it off they stopped yelling, shook their head once and scampered away like everything was fine. It obviously hurt like hell when it was happening though. This procedure kept them from growing horns that they would be able to butt and hook you and other goats with and was supposed to prevent injuries.

Lollipop on the Milking Stand
Lollipop on the Milking Stand

Another fun job was castrating the young males not destined to be breeding bucks. It involved a very sharp penknife. I was attempting to do this to a very good looking little buck one day because I had not managed to sell him and did not want him breeding his mother and sisters. I was sitting cross legged on the ground holding him down with one leg and one arm and about to slice into him but every time I’d even get near his scrotum he’d cry like a baby. He was making it very hard for me to actually cut him. I was on about my fifth try when this car stops by up on the road and hollers down to me, “Got any buck goats for sale?” A buck was worth at least fifty dollars more than a whether (a buck that had already been castrated) and I really was not into the whole procedure anyway (neither was he) so I was glad to oblige. Lucky little guy went trotting right up to them and climbed into their backseat. Some things are just meant to be.

Sometime later on, I thought it might be nice to start a flock of sheep since we had plenty of pasture. Then I could spin the wool and weave cloth and make clothes out of it. I already made a lot of our clothes using mu old treadle sewing machine. You could still buy the leather drive belts for it at the local hardware store. My Mom and Grandmom both taught me how to sew early on, and I had been in sewing 4-H in 4th grade, so it was not hard for me. I love to sew. Spinning and weaving are along the same lines. Our neighbor Harry down the road knew a sheep farmer over in Mountain, a little tiny side of the road place that actually used to be called Mole Hill. They made a mountain out of a mole hill- it was even printed on the state road map as “Mountain (Mole Hill)”.

Una, our Southdown Ewe
Una, our Southdown Ewe

For some reason the man with the sheep had it in his head that I was wanting a lamb for 4-H ( I did look pretty young) so he only charged me 20 dollars.  I tried to argue but he would have none of it. So we loaded our lamb onto my lap and carried her home in the VW bug drove her home. On the way we named her Una, after another neighbors niece. Una was a Southdown, an old fashioned hardy West Virginia breed that has gotten pretty hard to find these days, and she was a real sweet tempered ewe. Southdown’s tend to go wool blind if you don’t keep up with the wool that grows down over their eyes, and they are small and easy to manage.  She was just old enough to leave her mama and grew up with the goats, thinking she was one of them. She would jump up on the milking stand to be milked just like they did so every once in awhile I would oblige, if she had milk. The milking stand meant grain to eat and they were all for that. They all seemed to like the udder massage and hot towel treatments too. We took Una for a ride and a visit to a nearby ram once every year, always hoping for ewe lambs to increase the flock, but every year she gave us a ram lamb, which we would have to eat.

Una mama with Newton ram lamb
Una mama with Newton ram lamb

We had to stop being vegetarians because it wasn’t practical to go around being hungry when you had animals that were trying to feed you. What else can you do with a ram or an old chicken? And when we worked in our neighbors hay all he could afford to trade was beef from his cows. We had our own hay. It was a matter of natural practicality. Once you have lived on a farm it all makes a lot more sense.

Working with Harry’s beef cows was an experience in itself, a lot of experiences actually. He had about 350 acres and usually 40 or so cows and then the calves that went with them. On one side of the road were the Herefords and on the other the Black Angus. He didn’t want to mix them because they had different temperaments and might teach each other bad habits. Some of the Herefords came with the farm when he bought it and he figured out why they were left behind afterwards. They were so wild you couldn’t get near  them. They were almost impossible to herd into the loading pen when it came time to vaccinate and castrate their calves and the calves weren’t going without their mamas. He fed them all grain on a regular basis to get them used to him and when he honked his truck horn they would always moo back. It sounded like they were mooing “H-ar-ry” back at him. But they always knew when something was up and they’d head up to the very top of the hill and into the back forty.

Daniel
Daniel

I used my pony, Daniel, to help herd them because we could run faster, especially up the hill, than guys on the ground and we would head them off and back to the pens. Usually we herded them up twice a year. Once for the shots and such and then again when it was time to sort them out for the feeder calf sale. Every now and then we’d do a target roundup and try to just get in one sick or injured cow. There was one cow that was so wild that he never seemed able to get a hold of her calves and they would end up as wild as she was. When they were females it wasn’t too bad but with a bull calf it was bad news to have a wild one. Bulls can get really big and ornery. We tried for days to get this one wild bull calf penned up. We had him in the loading pen one day and with six of us trying to get him up the shoot and into the truck he managed to break through the gate and knock three of us flat down on the ground in the process, pinned under the broken gate. We were ready to kill him. Another day we managed to get him in the barn. Figured we’d feed him corn and make him settle down awhile before we tried to load him again. He kicked down the wall and escaped. We just kept telling Harry “why don’t you just take your gun, go out and shoot him and we’ll butcher him where he falls?” It would be a lot easier. He didn’t want to do that. That is, until the day he had his truck out in the field fixing fence, and that bull rammed it about five times and smashed the whole side in. That changed his mind. He managed to get around the other side and into the passenger side door and pulled out his rifle. That was the end of that bull. He didn’t get butchered on the spot though. He was bound to be tough so we used the front end loader to put him in the truck and took him to a guy who could grind him into hamburger. He was tasty too. After that we managed to snag his mama and take her to the sale barn so she wouldn’t be generating any more like him. After a few years all the original wild cows were replaced with well mannered ones. It sure makes a difference in how you feel about working them. And I never really saw that much difference between the Angus and the Herefords, it was more the wilds and the better mannered.

Cows can give you all kids of reasons to wish you were somewhere else. One day when it was icy and blowing a hard cold wind Harry came down and got us to see if we could help him with a cow. She had been walking along the edge of the creek and must have slipped because she had fallen in-upside down. She was not able to get herself righted and though her face wasn’t in danger of drowning,  she was in danger of dying from the cold and sheer stupidity. He needed one of us to operate the tractor while the other two put ropes on her and tried to pull her out and back on her feet. So now two people and a cow were getting wet. This operation took us about 45 minutes and it must have been about ten degrees outside. Stupid cow. We finally got her out and got her rubbed down sort of dry using burlap sacks.  Then we fed her some grain and Harry heated up some warm water for her to drink. She lived. Another time we had to help him pull a very dead calve from a downed cow using a come along. It was gross and I felt bad for the cow. The calf had been too big to make it through and had gotten stuck and unfortunately the cow had hidden herself away where Harry couldn’t see her. Normally he caught problems like that in time. We managed to get the dead calve out but the mama was sick for a couple of weeks and had to have a lot of doctoring. If not for antibiotics she would have died.

Sunflowers
Sunflowers

Just before the annual fall feeder calve sale the 300 to 700 pound calves were sorted into a holding pen and fattened up on corn. This lot made a great place to grow potatoes and one year we went in with Harry and his brother and planted a whole bunch of Irish Cobblers, Kennebecs and Red Pontiacs. Our share was 20 bushels. That is a lot of potatoes for two people. Since we didn’t have a root cellar yet we had to store them above ground in mounds of hay covered with dirt to keep them from freezing. It worked really well. We traded potatoes for all kinds of things that winter. We dug them up using a tractor, thank goodness. Digging them up by hand would have done us in. These days I plant only about 7 or 8 short 25 foot rows and digging them is still a major chore.

I learned a lot of different skills while Homesteading in West Virginia and there are a lot of stories to tell yet.

Me and Barney
Me and Barney

 

-Wendy lee Maddox

Writing at edgewisewoods.com